• Introduction    
  • Tools and Supplies    
  • Sewing Notes    
  • Safety Notes    
  • Material Selection    
  • Getting the Pattern    
  • From Duct Tape 
    to Cardboard
       
  • Pattern Adjustments   
  • Cutting out the Pieces   
  • Preparing the Sole   
  • Starting Construction   
  • Assembling The Back   
  • Applying The Lacing Blocks   
  • Making Buttons   
  • Attaching the back to 
    the front
       
  • Cementing the Upper 
    to the Sole
       
  • Sewing the Upper 
    to the Sole
       
  • Attaching the Rubber Sole   
  • Sewing on the Buttons   
  • Lacing Up   
  • Glossary 
         
  • Design Home   
  • Barge...Got to be Barge.

    Cutting out the Pieces

    ...and don't run with the scissors.

    It may seem a little odd, but you should cut out the pieces in the order that you find them in this table. The reason is this: the fronts have to be one piece - so give them the most leather. The mid-soles come next - they also have to be one piece but can fit where the fronts might not. The backs are the last of the big pieces because you can split them up the center if you need to, but if you do you must add a foxing to cover the stitch line where the backs are put back together.

    Confused yet? Try this: make as many pattern pieces as you are actually going to cut out. Lay the leather out (think living room floor) and set all of the pieces down. Work them around until everything fits. Be watchful for holes and unwanted blemishes in the leather (I made a pair of boots for a paying customer and didn't discover the hole until everything was cut out: dead center on the front).

    Piece Leather Qty
    Front 5-6 oz Cut 2 (reverse one)
    (Mid-)Soles
    (+1/4")
    5-6 oz Cut 2 (reverse one)
    Back 5-6 oz Cut 2 (reverse one)
    Button Block 5-6 oz Cut 2 (reverse one)
    Heel Block 5-6 oz Cut 2 (reverse one)
    Lacing Blocks 5-6 oz Cut 2 (reverse one)
    Soles
    (without the 1/4" extra)
    9-10 oz Cut 2 (reverse one)

    On to the next page: Preparing the sole

     

     

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